Doc's firearms thread

[Docwagon 856]

I don't know if the old thread will be transported over to this forum or not, although I think it probably will be.  In the mean time, I thought I'd address a few new points.

 

Ok, you've chosen a handgun, have gotten some training, and are wondering what's next.

 

Almost any factory handgun can be improved upon.  Here are a few key common upgrades.

 

1) Trigger job

 

Almost any factory gun can be improved by a qualified gunsmith working the trigger.  Factory pieces are machine made and will invariably have some rough surfaces, sloppy mating, etc. that just goes with mass production done by machines.  A gunsmith can hand fit and polish your internal trigger mechanisms, which will result in a smoother and better feeling trigger.  Almost any gun will benefit from this, to a greater or lesser degree.

 

In addition the smith can "tune" a trigger more to your liking.  Trigger weights can be adjusted up or down, over travel can be adjusted or eliminated (the amount of distance the trigger can still travel backward after firing a shot) as can reset distance (the amount of distance the trigger must move back forward before being ready to fire again).

 

GENERALLY speaking, a lighter trigger is easier to shoot.  Remember the intended use for the gun.  A 1.5 lb trigger is fine on a target gun, but too light for a defensive carry gun, as it would be too easy to accidentally discharge.  A 4.0 lb trigger is about as light as you probably want to go on a carry gun.

 

Less over travel is always better.  A shorter reset is always better.

 

Note trigger weight can only be adjusted so much, especially in a revolver where part of the weight comes from the hammer spring.  If the hammer spring is too light, it won't cause the hammer to fall hard enough to consistently ignite the ammunition's primer, resulting in a failure to fire.

 

Glock triggers can be VASTLY improved with a Ghost connector and a competent smith's polishing.  M&P pistols can also be vastly improved by an Apex kit combined with polishing.

 

2) Sights

 

The quality of factory sights varies widely.  Some are plastic with painted in dots that will fall out under heavy use.  Others are steel with tritium vial inserts.  Crap sights should obviously be replaced, but sometimes even high quality sights just aren't quite right for an individual shooter.  You may prefer a wider or narrower rear sight gap, you may prefer more contrast or different colors, etc.

 

I recently replaced my Sig P220's factory night sights because during the day the milkiness of the front dot made it slower for me to acquire.  I went with Trijicon HD (orange), as pictured here:

 

 

I find the orange dot much faster to acquire, especially with no competing colors on the rear "u" channel sight.  At night there are three green dots, like standard night sights.  This simple change has improved the speed and accuracy of my follow up shots noticeably.

 

3) Grips

 

Not all handguns have replaceable grips.  Especially with earlier polymer pistols, you can put a sleeve over it but there's no way to make it smaller or really change the shape to better fit your hand.  Newer polymers tend to have replaceable back straps so you can at least change the size up or down without resorting to a sleeve.  Revolvers really shine in grip selection, though, as there doesn't have to be room for a box magazine.  You can go way oversized for target pistols down to really thin stocks for better concealment to anything in between to better fit your hands and goals.

 

[BO7H B4RRELS 2,450]

Nice write-up, Doc.  Thanks for posting that. 

[Docwagon 856]

Today's installment:

 

How to check your set up.  This is essentially a guide on how to see if what (and just as importantly, how) you are carrying is working for you.  This is geared toward defensive carry, but similar checks with a few tweaks work fine for checking a competition rig.

 

1) Shot timer

 

Your goal here is speed and accuracy.  You want a bit of pressure on yourself to see if your draw stroke is smooth and consistent and how fast you can put rounds on target.  The important thing here is to practice like you actually carry, and to be consistent.  I recently ran 150 rounds through two handguns to see which I was actually the fastest with.  I simulated the most common type of self defense shooting, a surprise encounter within 7 yards that is resolved within three shots, single target or two targets tightly spaced.  All runs were started with my hands either at my sides like I walk or near my chest like I was writing in a notebook, (3 of each).  The timer was set to start the string of fire randomly between 3 seconds and 9 seconds.  Time stops after the 3rd hit on a small torso steel target.

 

The first number is the time (in seconds) to the first shot.  The second number is the time at the 3rd shot.  Only hits count, but at 7 yards I didn't miss a shot.

 

Averages:

Sig P220 in Bianch Shadow 7 concealed under sport jacket:  2.2 - 2.6 

Sig P220 in Crossbreed concealed under untucked shirt: 2.52 - 3.17 

Sig P220 in Bianchi Shadow 7, open carry: 2.01 - 2.5 

 

GP100 in Galco Speed Paddle, concealed under sport jacket: 2.45-3.17  

GP100 in Galco Speed Paddle, open carry: 2.30 -3.01

 

LCR in Uncle Mike belt pack holster: 2.75-3.20

 

 

I was also going to test my Glock with the trigger job, but forgot to pack any .40S&W ammo, so it just sat in the range bag looking lonely and sad.

 

Conclusions:

The Sig P220 with Shadow holster is the fastest and most consistent style of concealed carry for me at this time.  Its also how I carry at work now.

 

My exercise set up (LCR in belt pack holster) is faster than I thought it would be and provides a better and more reliable grip than I thought it would.  This is the only spread that I don't trust, as I was running standard pressure .38's instead of +P ammo through it.  Real world shooting would be using +P and the higher recoil would space the shots out a bit more.

 

The GP100 is still a completely adequate choice for carry, although slightly slower at close distances.  However, I am still more accurate with it at longer distances even with the new sight setup on the Sig.  Everything is a tradeoff, and since the Sig is fastest in the most common encounter, I'm choosing it as my every day carry.

 

2) 21' drills

 

**THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS IF DONE IMPROPERLY, GET PROFESSIONAL TRAINING**

 

Essentially a 21' drill is a high pressure test of if you're set up works correctly.

 

 

This should first be done with an empty gun, preferably with a yellow barrel (plastic barrel insert that is incapable of actually firing).

Shooter stands facing a cardboard target at 5-7 FEET, not yards.

Partner stands to the shooter's NON-GUN SIDE parallel to the target.  In other words, if the shooter is right handed, the partner should be 21' directly to his left.

At some point, Partner rushes Shooter.  Shooter needs to unholster weapon and fire one round at the target before partner tags him.  A chalk knife is a great training aid in this.

 

After everyone is comfortable with this, the barrel can be replaced and wax bullets or simunitions can be used to mark the target.  Remember one shot per drill.

 

I do NOT recommend doing this with live ammunition at any time.  It is simply to dangerous if the Shooter gets bowled over by the Partner.  Even simunitions can cause injury at near contact distances, use eye protection and your brain.

 

This is *NOT* an accuracy drill, live ammo is irrelevant!  You are checking that you can get your gun out of its holster and fired under pressure in a short time to a perceived threat.

 

This will show you:

Issues with retention holster.  (Thumb break that sticks, lever that's not natural to deactivate, etc.)

Issues with draw stroke.  (Inconsistent grip, dropping the weapon, etc.)

Issues with manual safeties (Inability to deactivate the thumb safety, poor grip not deactivating grip safety)

Your own speed.

 

I was introduced to 21' drills about 13 years ago.  When I started carrying my first semi-auto handgun, a CZ40B, I learned I could not deactivate the small thumb safety reliably, so I started carrying hammer down with safety off.  (The CZ40B can be carried hammer back/safety on or hammer down/safety off).  Shortly thereafter I went to the 1911, and the large thumb safety was never an issue with it.

[JsinOwl 644]

You're amazing.

[Docwagon 856]

You're amazing.

 

....must...resist...temptation....

 

Self-control.....fading.....ARGH!!!!!

 

[BO7H B4RRELS 2,450]

[Dattebayo 446]

I havent been to a gun range in too long.

I miss rush you get from the jolting bass you feel deep in your chest and the recoil in your elbows.

This thread will have to do in the meantime. x)

/Oh, and hows the holster youve been trying out since Christmas?

[Sennex 1,903]

Hey Doc (Or anyone else interested)

 

Check out this guys site and newletter: http://www.gunsandgunsmiths.com/

 

Some really solid information, although most of it does happen to be for older models of firearms.

 

Also, 

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/hickok45

 

That old crusty dude has some of the best Youtube videos out there for firearms.

[BO7H B4RRELS 2,450]

^ I've seen a lot of his videos, they're always pretty good. 

[Docwagon 856]

/Oh, and hows the holster youve been trying out since Christmas?

 

The shoulder holster?  It's now my "bump in the night" rig.  I keep it slung over my headboard with two spare magazines and a flashlight.  That way I can just sling it on and have what I need.  I've never gotten comfortable enough with it to wear it on duty, its just slower than a good belt holster.

 

Also, 

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/hickok45

 

That old crusty dude has some of the best Youtube videos out there for firearms.

 

Hickok45 is one of the more interesting guys to watch, and he definitely has some good info.

[Docwagon 856]

Today I want to talk about a boring but important topic, range safety equipment.  I realized I probably should have lead with this, but its so ingrained in me now that I really don't think of it any more than I think of telling people to buy ammunition before going to the range.  This is a failing on my part, as this is very important and I shouldn't take it for granted that people know.

 

1) Ear protection.  Your ears can "blink" (seriously, Google it) and a few gunshots won't damage your hearing long term.  However their "blinking" mechanism gets tired pretty rapidly, and then repeated exposure to loud noises can start to bend the little hairs inside your ear that you use to hear with.  They don't repair themselves.  Hearing loss is permanent.  WEAR QUALITY HEARING PROTECTION.

 

Basic muffs can be had for under $10.  Throw some of those foam inserts into you ear, put a set of $10 muffs on over them, you're good to go.

 

If you're going to be spending a lot of time at the range, want to be able to talk to friends at the range without doffing your muffs, are taking classes where you need to hear the instructor, or are using a shot timer and need to hear the beep, then its time to step up to electronic muffs.  E-muffs will automatically shield you from harmful sound levels but will still let you hear normal sound levels, such as conversation.  You can adjust how loudly you hear the conversation, etc.

 

These are a great basic pair of electronic muffs:  http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-R-01526-Electronic-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O

 

More expensive versions will have better stereo hearing, better amplification, etc.  That's great if you want them for hunting.  For range use, mostly irrelevant.  For hunting use, you want more realistic amplification so that your own footsteps in the leaves don't sound as loud as a squirrel jumping on a branch.

 

2) Eye protection

 

Especially when shooting at close distances, fragments from the backstop, bullet, or target can fly back at you.  A tiny sliver of lead hitting your t-shirt is no problem.  The same sliver hitting your eye can ruin your day.  Also, guns are machines and can malfunction.  Fragments from a ruptured barrel or breaking slide can blind you.  The odds are low, but the stakes are high.  Wear your eye protection.

 

I like these:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramex-Unlimited-Shooting-Eyewear-Anti-Fog/dp/B000LVJ2TS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379176134&sr=8-1&keywords=duck+dynasty+shooting+glasses

 

They don't fog up very easily, the case lets them be put in your range bag without getting all scratched up, and it the bag doubles as a lens cloth for cleaning.  They also adjust easily to fit with ear muffs, a plus over regular sunglasses.  The different color shades are nice to have for different lighting levels.

 

If you have eye protection that starts to fog up, use a motorcycle helmet visor treatment on them, such as Fog-X, to restore anti-fog ability.

 

Also, the basics of range safety:

 

1) Muzzle is always down range, if you slip and fall that's ok but keep your gun barrel pointed down range as best you can while falling and then when standing back up.

2) Finger off the trigger until ready to shoot.

3) Semi-auto handguns CAN fire by simply closing the slide.  Its a rare malfunction, but it can happen.  Use a sand barrel or at very least point it at the ground or down range when closing the slide.  Again, its not the odds as much as the stakes.

4) Follow all range instructor's commands immediately.

5) Everyone is a safety officer.  If you see someone down range or something else unsafe, call a cease fire.

6) If shooting with others on a line, realize that you may occasionally get pelted with hot brass.  It sucks.  Don't dance around like an angry chicken, holster your gun or safety set it down, then get the brass off of you.

 

and of course, the 4 general rules of firearms safety

 

1. All guns are always loaded.
2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy.
3. Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on the target.
4. Be sure of your target and what is beyond it.

[Docwagon 856]

Kids and guns, a two pronged approach.

 

1) Education.  Kids in a gun owning household should not be kept in the dark.  They should be taught that guns are dangerous and are not toys.  Something like the NRA Eddie Eagle program is a great start. Keeping them in the dark only means they will be unsafe when they do come across a gun, plus the 'forbidden fruit' aspect.

 

2) Safe storage.  Guns should be locked up or otherwise secured.  Remember its not just your kids, its your kids' friends, etc.  Having guns laying around the house is stupid.  Period.

 

I got a real good view of a young boy's blown out arm last night due to a violation of both of the above rules.  Fractured ulna, significant tissue damage, and a long recovery in front of him.

 

Don't be stupid and let your kids pay the price.

[Docwagon 856]

Today's installment:  What ammo should I use for self defense?

 

This is an often overlooked part of the carry package.  People spend hours of research and trial and error to get just the right gun in just the right caliber...and then slap whatever cartridges they find in there and figure it's cool.  Or worse yet, they buy into some over-hyped wonder bullet that promises to vaporize bad guys, drive you home, call your lawyer, and explain what happened to your mom.

 

1) Assuming you listened to me in the old post and bought something between .380 and .45 ACP, buy quality hollow points from the following list:

Speer Gold Dots

Federal Hydra Shoks or HST

Winchester Ranger SXT or PDX-1

Hornady Critical Defense

Buffalo Bore (any of their hollowpoints)

Remington Golden Saber

 

2) Steer clear of ultra lightweight all copper bullets (like DRT) or prefragmented bullets (like Glaser Safety Slug).  They do NOT offer reliable penetration, especially if they hit a bone.  A shallow messy wound is not what you want, you want a cartridge that gets a bullet deep enough to root around in a vital organ or the central nervous system.

 

3) Pay zero attention to "muzzle energy" that is listed on web sites, marketing material, or boxes of ammo.  Muzzle energy is a worthless measurement in the effectiveness of a projectile weapon.  It is used because it is both easy to figure and it looks impressive in the marketing.  Say it with me:  Muzzle energy is worthless absent much more important data.  Repeat three times:  Energy dump is make believe, it was discredited decades ago, and is irrelevant in handgun calibers.  I will explain why if anyone's interested.

 

4) If you didn't listen to me and bought a smaller caliber than .380, carry ball ammo.  You may be better off in a short barrel .380 to carry ball ammo.  Ball ammo does not expand like a hollowpoint.  Expansion is good, but not at the expense of penetration.  If your caliber won't reliably penetrate 12" of ballistic gel with a hollowpoint, you need to carry ball.  Actually, you need to get a better gun, but in the mean time carry ball.

 

5) Consider bonded ammunition.  Bonded means the jacket is bonded to the core and they are much harder to separate.  This means that the bullet is more likely to remain intact (and retain weight) as it goes through intermediate barriers. Let's say you are forced to shoot through a car window.  A non-bonded bullet, especially lightweight and high velocity bullets, will start to fragment, especially hollowpoints.  Fragments will not fly as true or penetrate as deeply as the original bullet.  A bonded bullet resists that force.  This is not as much of an issue with heavier, slower bullets.  If you're carrying a .357 or 9mm, bonded can make a lot of difference.  If you are carrying a .45, not so much.

 

6) You *MUST* test your carry gun with your carry bullets.  I understand self defense rounds are expensive.  I also understand the risk if they don't feed well in your handgun and you don't know it until you need it.  I run a minimum of 50 rounds through a semi-auto before I'll carry a particular bullet.  Revolvers are much more forgiving.  18 is plenty, and I'll roll check my actual carry rounds.*

 

Doc's rules:

 

Buy quality ammo from a reputable manufacturer

Buy "normal" bullet weights.  For example, 230 gr in a .45, 165-180 gr in a .40, 125-158 gr in a .357, etc.  Steer clear of the all copper super light bullets.

Test your gun/bullet combination before carrying.

 

 

*How to roll test a revolver:

This requires a revolver with an external hammer.  A hammerless or concealed hammer revolver can not be roll checked.

This must be done with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, preferably into a sand barrel or into a stack of phone books.  If you slip up, you can shoot a round off.

 

1) Load all chambers with your chosen carry ammo.

2) Close cylinder.

3) Pull hammer back with your off hand thumb while observing the cylinder for smooth rotation.

4) WITH YOUR OFF HAND THUMB STILL ON THE HAMMER AND HOLDING IT BACK, pull the trigger with your strong hand and GENTLY let the hammer down completely.

 

Repeat steps 3-4 until you have rotated the cylinder through every chamber.

 

If any chamber binds, remove the cartridges.   There are two possibilities.  One is a bent crane and the revolver needs to be repaired by a competent gunsmith or the manufacture.  The second is one of your cartridges is out of spec and is too long, causing it to not seat fully in the cylinder, which causes it to drag.  By experimenting with moving the cartridges around and seeing if the revolver binds on one particular cartridge regardless of its position or one particular chamber regardless of the cartridge, you can tell which without the use of tools.

[Dattebayo 446]

Why is muzzle energy irrelevant?

I've heard police departments swear by high-energy rounds.

edit: and are muzzle energy and bullet veloccity linked?

[Diddums 4,305]

I love your threads Doc, always well informed and you shed light on things I wouldn't even consider.

[Docwagon 856]

Why is muzzle energy irrelevant?

I've heard police departments swear by high-energy rounds.

edit: and are muzzle energy and bullet veloccity linked?

 

Wow, I'm glad someone asked.

 

Yes, ME is linked to velocity.  Muzzle Energy is nothing other than a cartridges's kinetic energy as it exits the weapon's barrel, so it only measures mass and velocity (weighted toward velocity).  ME is only useful when combined with multiple other measurements, such as sectional density.  Why?  Because what makes a handgun cartridge effective is getting a bullet into a vital organ or the central nervous system and destroying tissue.  Handgun cartridges do not wound via "energy dump" or the transferal of kinetic energy.  So, using Muzzle Energy (kinetic energy) alone tells you nothing since it can’t tell you how far the projectile will penetrate or how much tissue it will destroy.

 

Let's give an example with a wide spread so we can really see the difference. Let's say you had to choose to let me clothesline tackle you across your chest from a run or you have to let me shoot you in the chest with a 158 grain Hyrda-shock .357 magnum bullet. Taking the tackle results in you absorbing about 300 ft/lbs of energy over what taking the bullet does. Right across the chest. I'll probably knock you down, but will I inflict any significant injury? 300 ft/lbs of energy over the .357, after all... No, of course not.  You'll get up and be fine. Your body can easily absorb that much energy without causing any wounds, and unlike the "low energy" .357, my tackle won't disrupt anything vital.

Another example would be A .22LR and a well thrown baseball, which have about the same kinetic energy.  You'd be hard pressed to slaughter a cow throwing a baseball at the animal's skull, yet slaughter houses have killed bajillions of cows with a .22 LR to the noggin.

 

A .22 short, probably the least effective modern caliber, has more kinetic energy than an arrow launched from a high pull recurve bow rated for hunting grizzly bear.  Anyone who shot a bear with a .22 short just wanted to die from a really pissed off bear.

 

Now, let’s compare bullets to bullets, although since velocities and mass will be close to each other the differences won’t be so dramatic among the calibers I recommended to you.

Take a look at this often cited chart:

 

Which has the most kinetic energy?  In order from top to bottom (in ft/lbs)

384

348

483

424

396

391

 

The .357 Sig has the highest, with about 40% more muzzle energy than the second 9mm offering (which has the lowest muzzle energy).  Yet despite having 40% more muzzle energy it penetrates slightly LESS than the 9mm.  Note that the first 9mm offering has MORE muzzle energy than the second, yet doesn’t penetrate as far.  Note all of these cartridges would pass the FBI standard of 12” of penetration in a calibrated ballistic gel block.  In short, despite a 40% swing in muzzle energy, they are all effective cartridges.

Muzzle energy is often cited because it looks impressive and is easy to calculate and put on your box. Its especially popular with gimmick ammo that is incredibly light weight and prefragmented or super frangible because it makes it look more impressive in the marketing material. However, the most commonly cited measure of effectiveness continues to be the FBI standards, which of course measure penetration, or various studies on the results of real world shootings.

[JsinOwl 644]

Would you want the posts from your old thread added in here?

[Docwagon 856]

Would you want the posts from your old thread added in here?

 

Sure.

[JsinOwl 644]

Here's the first one

 

 

On "the old forum" I had a few folks PM me and ask for advise about shooting and firearms.  I thought I'd make this thread about my own shooting and if anyone has any questions feel free to post here.

 

First up, I'd like to give a link to a great starter handgun:

 

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/411545640

 

$300 for a 3" .38 special Smith & Wesson Model 10.

 

Why is this a good gun to learn on?

 

1) Revolvers are simple to maintain and simple to operate.  They don't come apart to clean, so no confusion on how to break it down and put it back together.  No accidentally shooting the gun when you think the chamber is empty.

 

2) .38 is cheap and easy to find.

 

3) Recoil is light and controllable.

 

4) .38 +P defensive ammo is an effective self defense round.

 

5) A 3" barrel is a great length for a carry gun.  Its easier to conceal than a 4" and the sight radius is longer than a snubnose, which is 2" or just under.  The extra inch also gives you some added velocity, making the round a bit more potent.

 

6) This gun isn't going to lose value.  Its a fair condition S&W.  Its a $300 gun today, and it'll be a $300 gun if you nick it up a bit more.

 

7) Its a rock solid gun, and if you do manage to break it every gunsmith on the planet knows how to work on it.

 

8) Plenty of aftermarket support for holsters, grips/stocks, springs, hammers, triggers, etc.

 

They also have a 4" barrel for $25 less.  4" is better for range use and home defense, but will be more difficult to concealed carry.

[JsinOwl 644]

Doc on High Points

What is your opinion on High Points? It's a cheaper brand gun. I had a 9mm Beretta that I used to love but got rid of. I don't have a lot of cash at the moment but would really like to get something again and have been looking at these.

High point is the best quality gun in their price range.

Pros:

1) Reliable. They go bang with every trigger pull.

2) Cheap. But you knew that.

3) Warranty/Customer Service. Top notch, surprisingly so, actually. No questions asked lifetime warranty.

4) Unless there's been a recent change, made in the USA.

Cons:

1) Terrible trigger feel. It will be nothing like the heavy but crisp feel of your Beretta. Its gritty, heavy, it stacks, and its just terrible.

2) Heavy. They are heavy and clunky, way too big for the caliber, and because they are a simple blow back design that big slide makes for an awkward shooter. Much like a brick with a grip.

3) Safety lever is terrible. Its much to small and poorly located to be manipulated under stress.

4) Grips are terrible. They are much to slick and bulky.

5) Magazine well is narrow. With single stack mags you want a bit of a mag funnel, and hi-points don't have it. It can make quick reloads dicey.

If you've only got $130 or so and have to have a gun right now, its significantly better than the Cobra, Jennings, Jiminez, etc. that occupy its price point. The frame won't crack and it won't fall apart in your hand.

My recommendation would be to save up for a better gun, though. If you can scrap up $300, the revolver above would be a much better gun, and you could look at Bersas on the semi-auto side. A Bersa Thunder is a close copy of a Walther PPK (trigger guard is differently shaped, so not an actual clone). Its much lighter, sleeker, has a better trigger, more useful safety, and much better grips than the Hi-point. Its also a fixed barrel blow back design, but not nearly as clunky.

There's a huge difference, and its well worth the additional money.

TL;DR

$150-ish, Hi-point wins. You'll get a lot more gun at the $300 price point, though.

[JsinOwl 644]

Doc's epic review of the Sig P220

This is a review of my Sig P220 that I did for another site. It is my current duty weapon, although I do occasionally rotate in my Ruger GP100 when I'm feeling old school.

I recently purchased a Sig P220 from Bud's. It came with the night sights and Short Reset Trigger. They were briefly at $755 and I pounced, but are now back to $824. The Sig designation is 220R-45-BSS-SRT

The Finish:

The Nitron finish shows everything. If your finger brushes past the slide, it will look like you dipped your hand in Smuckers before grabbing the pistol. After a few shots, the slide will show signs of gunpowder residue. This picture is literally seconds after I cleaned it after coming back from shooting today and it still looks like I didn't wipe it down good. Unless you wear surgical gloves, expect some smudging on the finish. This doesn't bother me as this is a work gun, but if it bothers you just be aware. The finish seems to hold up well, though. I holstered and drew 100 times before I put the first magazine in it to build up some muscle memory before shooting, and there is no sign of holster wear yet.

The sights:

These are SigLight Night Sights.

Its tough to get a good photo of sight alignment, but the front blade is thin and allows plenty of daylight on either side. It seemed to be much more open than Glock factory night sights. I started out the day shooting a bit low, and figured out that you want to see just a bit of the top of the slide, which will line all three dots up. Its very fast and intuitive once you get used to it, I'm still just weaning myself from my Glock. I haven't had a chance to do night fire yet, but standing in my basement in the dark the dots all glow nicely.

The trigger

The first pull is heavy at 10lb advertised. I don't have a scale, but it feels about right. While heavy, its smooth and has ZERO stacking. Pull until it breaks, then sparks fly and a .45 sized flying ash tray ruins someone's day. Follow up shots in single action pull are like a superb 1911 or single action revolver. The Short Reset Trigger lives up to its name, take a tiny bit of pressure off, it barely eases forward, and you hear the positive click of the reset. The SA is advertised at 4.4 lbs, but it feels lighter due to the very short range of motion and lack of stacking. While in my mind, nothing beats a good SAO trigger, the Sig is top notch in the DA/SA arena, better than Beretta, HK, and CZ.

Reliability

I cleaned the pistol and lubed it up using a few drops of CLP on the barrel and Tetra gun grease on the slide. Then I ran 225 rounds through it, with zero failures of any kind. I used the two factory 8 round magazines that came with the gun. In order, I started with 50 rounds of Federal American Eagle, 50 rounds of Sellier and Bellot, 50 rounds of Armscor (all 230 gr ball). On a side note, while dirty the Phillipines produced Armscor is extremely accurate. This was my last box as I rotated ammo, but it was cheap ammo that's been hiding in my safe for about 10 years.

The good old days:

Then it was on to the high dollar hollow points. 25 Golden Sabers, 25 Hydrashocks, and 25 SXTs finished off the day. All 230 gr hollowpoints. Again, everything ran through it fine.

Accuracy

The gun is better than me, hands down. Shooting free handed I cannot take advantage of how accurate this gun is, but even with only 200 rounds down range I shoot it better than my Glock with thousands of rounds down range. The ONLY gun I believe I shoot better is my Springfield 1911, and I've got a decade behind that trigger.

All groups are 5 rounds from 12 yards, two handed, standing. First shot DA, then SA, fired as quickly as I could get a good sight picture. I believe the gun is capable of much better groups than I am, but in the woods I don't have a rest and my table rusted away, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

SXTs ("E" is the PAO):

Golden Sabers (Center of the sticker is POA):

I was very happy with that.

Hydrashocks (center of red rectangle is POA)

A good group, other than the flyer where I milked the grip. This is no reflection on Hydrashocks, they group great out of my 1911. I was just getting tired and sloppy and shot faster than my skills allow and jerked one.

Perceived Recoil

This is so subjective I hesitate to include it. The recoil is mostly barrel flip straight up, its very comfortable on the hand, and very controllable. I'd say slightly more flip than a 5" 1911, but not by much.

Social Use

Reloading is the one thing I can do faster and better with the Glock. The single stacks and lack of much funnel slow me down a touch. Of course, there's a difference of familiarity, too. The gun would benefit from a bit of a magazine well funnel, though. 8 and 10 round mags are standard, and while that probably sounds low in the days of 15-16 round duty weapons, it suits me fine.

The .45 is plenty of bullet, and with quality ammunition does as much damage as you can reasonably expect a handgun to do. You do your part, it will do its.

Its easier to conceal and carry than a full sized 1911, and I did that for years. Its just as easy to carry as the Glock, and feels a bit thinner. I only have a pancake holster right now, but will be getting an IWB soon, and am considering experimenting with a vertical shoulder holster.

I'll probably pretty it up a bit with rosewood grips at some point, just to be a bit more social. Other than that and some 10 round magazines, its going to be left factory and is just fine for it.

Final Thoughts

All in all, once I get another 300 rounds or so through it and build more muscle memory to decock before holstering, this is becoming my duty weapon, replacing the Glock 22. I'm very happy with it, and it feels nice to carry an all metal .45 instead of a plastic .40 again. The Sig will likely remain my duty weapon until a change of policy constricts me out of it OR expands to allow SAO.

Update:

After 6 months with the gun, I'm still very happy with it. I've had no malfunctions with factory ammo and one malfunction with a reload. The reload was over 10 years old and fired fine the second time I ran it through the gun, so I have no doubts it was the primer in the round. It had a deep firing pin strike on it the first time, it just didn't go off.

I am considering swapping the sights, though. After shooting the GP100 with Novak sights I realize I can probably be faster with this gun if I switch away from 3 dot sights to something with more contrast on the front sight.

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This is a review I did of my Ruger GP100, Wiley Clapp edition.

I recently picked up a Ruger GP100. It is the Wiley Clapp Hawkeye Blued, which is a 3" barrel .357 magnum revolver. Today I took it for its first range day. I used a Galco "Summer Comfort" IWB holster throughout. All shooting was done double action only. I'll do some single action work later, but wanted to get used to the trigger pull of DA as that's how you'll likely shoot it in a real self-defense scenario.

First up was 50 rounds of Ultramax Match 158gr semi-wadcutters. I've never used this ammo before, and doubt I will again. It shoots soft, recoil is minimal, and accuracy was acceptable. I wouldn't consider it match grade ammo, though, at least in the Ruger.

This is 6 rounds from 7 yards, two handed. I was a bit disappointed with the grouping.

I ran 6 more rounds through it a bit faster at 15 yards and then 6 more at 25 yards, going for headshots. As you can see, I was off paper on 3 of the headshots and the torso groups were acceptable but not great.

I finished out the box, and while the gun felt good, it just wasn't shooting the groups I had hoped for. At this point I wasn't sure if it was me or the gun.

Next up was a box of CCI Blazer Brass 158gr jacketed hollow points. First up was 7 yards, two handed shooting, same as with the UltraMax. The box is the size of a credit card. I was much happier with this ammo than the Ultramax and decided it wasn't me or the gun, it was the ammunition.

The Blazer ammo is loaded hotter than the Ultramax and you can tell. The recoil is heavier, but still very controllable with the heavy GP100. It groups quite well, and was actually the cheaper of the two.

This was 10y, two handed, as soon as I could find the front sight again. The gun settles very well and by the time I had the trigger reset I could be back on target.

Now that I knew the gun would perform as I expected with this ammo, I figured I'd trudge back to the 35 yard line and have some fun.

With these results:

I strung them a bit to the left as I went, and that's all me and not the gun. I was shooting faster than my skills allowed at that distance. Slowing down and running the trigger a bit slower tightened it up significantly.

I finished the box with some from the holster work, including shooting on the move. The following is three sets of double taps. I started at the 12y, drew as I moved diagonally forward, and fired two on on the go. Repeated at about 10y and about 7 yds.

The two shots with the slashes next to them were from earlier holster work, at 12y, as are the holes in the torso outside of the circle (and two inside the circle). 6 of the shots inside the circle are from 25y, staging the trigger, slow fire.

So, here's my takeaway:

Accuracy: Groups are perfectly acceptable and its combat accurate. Definitely up to my expectations. The photos above demonstrate this better than words can, and I'm sure I'm holding the gun back, not vice versa.

Trigger: The trigger is smooth and predictable. As I stated, all shooting was done DAO. The trigger stages well, the drawstroke is smooth, and it breaks cleanly. The trigger reset is long, as it is with any double action revolver, but I never short stroked it or felt it was a hassle. One of my friends, an armorer with decades of revolver experience, said it was one of the nicest factory triggers he's ever felt in a wheel gun.

Fit/finish: Ruger did a fine job with this gun. The crane was stiff out of the box, but after running 100 magnums through it it feels good now. It swings out with a push from the right, like it should, but doesn't bounce or flop around making it easy to use speed strips or speed loaders. The cylinder release button activates easily and positively. The finish is even and the grip is wobble free. The wood inserts in the grip are checkered perfectly, and everything seems to have tight tolerances.

Comfort: The rubber mono-grip with wood inserts fits my hands perfectly. Its very comfortable to shoot, even after 100 magnum loads I had no stinging hand or the like. I did have a slight rub mark on the inside of my trigger finger where the trigger guard brushes it under recoil, but not enough to raise a blood blister or cause me any real issue. This gun has, IMO, a perfect weight for a carry gun/range gun compromise. Light enough that its comfortable to carry with a quality belt/holster but heavy enough to absorb recoil and not be punishing to shoot at the range (looking at you, airweight snubby).

Sights: Fantastic. The Novak sights with gold dot on the front sight are perfect. The brass bead on the front sight post is so fast to acquire, the sights line up instinctively. The "light gap" on either side of the front sight is ideal for me, enough light to quickly see you are on target but narrow enough that its easy to stay centered and be accurate. These contribute to an easy, accurate, and fast first shot. I have not had a chance to try them in low light yet.

Carry-ability: I wore it around the house yesterday in the Summer Comfort and forgot it was there. Literally forgot. I started to go out and when I went to put my Sig on the Ruger was already there. The 3" barrel doesn't jab me i the thigh, and the Summer Comfort keeps the grip tight against my side. Easy to carry, easy to conceal.

Overall impressions: This gun is fast. Even with me being unfamiliar with it, it leaps out of the holster and onto target like its possessed. It points naturally, the sight lines up on its own, and the trigger makes double taps a joy. As the photos above show, even on the move I was able to land both shots within 1" of each other from 12y to 7y. It feels agile. While doing some holster work, spinning to face the target, it moves and points with ease.

Wiley Clapp was on to something when he and Ruger spec'd this gun out. It is a great do-it-all gun. I never really got the hype about the 3" barrel over the 4", but I sure do now. Its just so...agile, it feels like an extension of your hand. Points as well as a 1911, accurate, comfortable, and it simply oozes quality.

I don't think you'll find a better revolver at the price (MSRP $850, street price seems to be in the mid $700s on average), and probably won't do better on a factory revolver anywhere in the ballpark.

[JsinOwl 644]

How to select a carry gun:

Why listen to me? Easy answer, don’t. These are all just thinking points based on my own experience. Carry whatever you choose, I just ask that you apply some logical and critical thinking to that choice. I call the logical decision making process “the calculus of risk”. Forming a realistic expectation of the situations you might encounter, your chances of being able to overcome that situation with a specific handgun, and your dedication to carrying a specific handgun.

What is my experience? An adult life spent carrying a firearm domestically and overseas, but more importantly years in law enforcement dealing with people on the receiving end of violence. As a beat car I worked one of the highest homicide areas in the city. As a detective I work exclusively with robberies, people shot or stabbed or otherwise critically injured/killed. I haven’t kept count over the years but am into the triple digits on dealing with shootings. Many people bring experience to the table, and I read as much as I can, but everyone has some limitations. Coroners only see the ones who died, ER folks only see those who lived long enough to transport, and researchers tend to believe that people are denim clad bricks of jelly. While all of these bring knowledge to the table, each is limited in their own way. While not an expert in any of their field’s, I’m a fair hand at all of them. Overseas I’ve dabbled in threat analysis and protection plans, etc.

How do I decide what’s a realistic threat? Gaven De Becker has several good books and even an automated computer program (MOSAIC) that helps answer that, but good ol’ common sense will get you close. Do you have anyone actively seeking to harm you? A domestic violence situation? Fired someone from work who’s sending threats? Arrest someone who’s posting on their Facebook they’re going to kill you? Al-Queda documents found that put a bounty on your head? Or are you worried about random violence? You know your neighborhood, your acquaintances, your co-workers, the crime rate in the areas you travel, yes? These are going to come into play. I’ve received credible death threats and had a terrorist bounty on my head, along with the rest of my crew, complete with photographs found in a cache. You can be assured I took additional safety measures during my remaining time in country. Remember that threat level changes, reevaluate when your situation changes.

Now that I’ve gotten my threat level, how much risk do I believe I am likely to face? Here’s where I’ll lose people. There are lots of folks who will say prepare for the absolute worst scenario you may ever face. Those people should be considering a crew served weapon for when armored ninjas attack at battalion strength. A handgun is not a worst case scenario weapon. Handguns suck. Repeat it. Handguns suck. The only reason to carry a handgun of ANY KIND is convenience and concealability. You've already made the decision to trade effectiveness for convenience by not carrying a long gun, so don't get your panties twisted that someone else is placing the slide a bit further up or down the convenience/threat scale.

The rest of us, facing no specific credible threat, are a bit more free when it comes to weapon selection. The remainder of this post will assume that your threat assessment results in either one dedicated individual seeking to harm you or, even more likely, no specific credible threat and an average risk of random violence.

How important is round count?

Different people are going to have an acceptable minimum, but based on no specific credible threat and an average exposure to random violence, a typical encounter will have you shooting 3 rounds or less. More rounds is psychological satisfying, as is the availability of a reload. One officer talked about how good it felt to have a fresh magazine to reload with after he put down two armed robbers in a restaurant where he was off duty with his family. Note that the encounter was over. The majority of stories you see are like this. "I only had two rounds left, WHAT IF there had been another one" or WHAT if he hadn't fled or WHAT IF, etc. etc. I have yet to come across someone who was unsuccessful in a self-defense attempt who had emptied their gun. Again, hundreds of people shot, not one had an empty gun. They were either unarmed, disarmed, or never got a chance to unholster.

Based on that, I put the floor at 5 rounds. More is better. Unless you are trying to swim or are on fire, you'll never regret having too much ammo, but round count alone should be of low value in your selection of a handgun for carry.

The following events are actual events and illustrate the typical encounter:

Anecdote #1:

Victim approached by 3 armed suspects, victim attempts to draw his weapon, victim shot without getting the chance to fire, victim is presumably incapacitated and doesn't return fire, weapon found functional and fully loaded.

Anecdote #2:

Victim approached by armed suspect, victim draws weapon and fires one shot, striking suspect in head, kills suspect.

Anecdote #3:

Victim approached by armed suspect, victim draws and fires two shots, strikes suspect in abdomen with one, misses second shot, suspect flees. Victim later turns up at local hospital.

Anecdote #4:

Victim approached by two suspects, one of which is known to suspect to be a credible threat. Victim displays handgun in an attempt to discourage violence, unknown suspect shoots victim twice and flees. Victim retreats and doesn't return fire.

How important is caliber?

Ah, the religion of caliber. In full disclosure, I'm an archbishop of the church of the .45.

What calibers should I consider?

With modern HP ammunition, any common defensive handgun caliber is sufficient for the majority of situations. I put the floor at .380 and the ceiling at .45APC, perhaps 10mm.

My specific recommendation (assuming no arthritis, disability, etc) would be: 9mm, .38+P/.357, .40S&W, or .45 APC. There are differences between them, but the differences are minor in ending threats. If you like the grip angle, sights, etc. that's all going to be much more important than the difference between these calibers.

They are commonly available, relatively inexpensive, quality defensive ammo is available and they are all fight stoppers. If you already own a .380. .45 GAP, .357 Sig, etc. there's no reason to rush out and replace it, but I wouldn't specifically seek out those calibers if I were purchasing a new pistol. Modern metallurgy and polymers have made some very small, lightly recoiling, pistols in the more intermediate cartridges, pushing .380 out of the niche it once occupied. .357 Sig, .45 GAP, and other boutique ammos can be tough to source and don't do anything the more common and proven calibers don't.

What calibers should I avoid:

.25 is the absolute last caliber you should carry. Even a headshot is not a reliable stopper. Other than perhaps a .22 short, I can't think of a less effective caliber.

Anecdote #1: Victim is shot in stomach with .25 at almost contact distance, falls and attempts to crawl to safety. Shot again in the back, continues to crawl, is somehow flipped over and 4 rounds are put into his face at near contact distance.

Anecdote #2: Victim, a uniformed police officer, is shot in the back of the head with a .25 at contact distance. Victim thinks he was punched in back of head, turns around to see firearm, gun fight ensues, suspect killed.

.22, .32, .38S&W, etc are all underperforming rounds that should be avoided if possible.

Why is the .380 your minimum?

With quality ammo it will break a femur at reasonable self-defense ranges. It will penetrate deep enough into a torso or abdomen to reach vital organs and major blood vessels, and it can penetrate a skull.

Why is 10mm your maximum?

Quality ammo for the bigger calibers tends to be hunting cartridges. Hunting cartridges are not engineered the same as defensive rounds and will not be as effective in that capacity. The same reason I warn away from odd ball calibers, like the .41 magnum, that would otherwise be excellent choices. You are also getting into the territory where you are giving up more in control and followup shots than you are gaining in effectiveness.

Why do you choose .45?

Intermediate barriers, which are a real possibility in my line of work. Heavier/slower bullets hold together better and retain more velocity after going through an intermediate barrier. I feel quite comfortable with a .38+P when jogging or the like where the likely scenarios are different. It is unlikely you will need to shoot through a barrier, such as safety glass, as an armed citizen. A duty weapon for an officer who routinely deals with traffic stops should put more emphasis on barrier penetration than the average armed citizen.

How important is over penetration?

Closely related to caliber wars, but I will tell you that over penetration is never a concern for me in a defensive handgun. I've yet to come across the first fatality resulting from a handgun round that went through one person and struck another with enough force to injure or kill.

Per a ballistic wound textbook, a .38 needs to be traveling at 191 fps to penetrate human skin. A HP bullet traveling through two layers of skin and 6" of muscle (say an upper arm), has lost about 300fps. So it is possible to get a hit and it travel with enough force to injure someone else. However its extremely unlikely, and concerns about over penetration are greatly exaggerated when it comes to handguns.

1) Bullets don't keep going straight once they hit a human body. We are not made of ballistic jelly, we are made of multiple types of tissue with different levels of density. Bones and dense muscle can deflect a bullet, keeping it in the body or routing it back out but at a different angle

Anecdote #1: Victim shot in the buttock with .45 FMJ, it deflects up into abdomen and rapid bleed out causes death.

Anecdote #2: Victim is shot in the chest with a .45 HP, no vital organs in chest hit, but it deflected down into abdomen, severed an artery, and he died under medical care

Anecdote #3: Victim shot in chest with .45 FMJ, bullet penetrates skin, catches a rib, rides rib around under the skin, exits the back, victim awake and talking.

Anecdote #4: Victim shot through arm into chest wall with .357 Magnum FMJ, runs half a block to house, walks back when police arrive. Awake and talking during medical care.

2) Quality HP expands and begins to fragment, further slowing it, reducing its ability to penetrate a second target. It also richochets less and fragments easier. This is why HP ammo originally existed. Early HP ammo and FMJ ammo were statistically the same at causing fatalities. Modern HP ammo is significantly more advanced and expands more reliably than early HP rounds.

Anecdote #1: Victim is sitting in car, 9mm HP enters car door, grazes thigh, and then bounces off of center console. Expanded round found in floor board.

I am more concerned with underpenetration and its failure to stop an aggressor, and that aggressor being able to continue to cause harm, than overpenetration injuring someone else.

What criteria should I consider?

Now you're getting into the meat and potatoes of the decision. Eliminate pistols that don't conform to your required round count minimum and your preferred calibers. This will still leave you with a significant amount of choices, so let's narrow it down.

What's my budget?

Pretty obvious, you can eliminate pistols that cost more than you are willing to spend. Don't forget to include the cost of a quality holster, spare magazines/speed loaders, practice ammo, and carry ammo. Avoid crappy guns. Research the failure rate of a particular handgun, stick to known quality brands, and don't skimp on the holster or carry ammunition. There are quality firearms at very low price points, and there are trash guns at higher price points.

What fits my hand?

This is huge, and should be one of your prime considerations. A grip that is too small or too large will result in a handgun you can't accurately shoot. Grip angle is very important, and often overlooked. The gun should point naturally for you. While training will overcome poor grip angle choice (and remember this is a personal fit, what fits your body mechanics may not fit mine), you will always have to work harder to be good with a gun that's a poor fit for you. I carry a Taurus snub nose because the grip angle of the modern S&W snubbies (and my hatred for the keyhole, but another story) results in me having to cock my wrists more for a straight shot. The Taurus is more natural for me. Similarly, I carry a Sig over a Glock and a single stack over a double stack for the same reasons.

What sights do I want?

Your eye sight matters in this decision. I am partially color blind for red and must take that into consideration when selecting a sight system.

Ideally, you want a high visibility sight set up that is durable and easy to acquire. You do not want target sights, they give up speed for accuracy. You do not want "big dots", which are the opposite extreme. You want combat sights, a blend of speed and accuracy. I prefer night sights for a duty weapon, for a regular carry weapon a high visibility set up like on the XDS is tough to argue with.

Adjustable or fixed, both have their advantages. For pocket or ankle carry, fixed and low profile (snag free) is to be preferred. For a belt holster, especially a hooded one, adjustable sights become more of an option.

Lasers and red dots have their advantages and disadvantages, study and train with them before making your decision to incorporate, but for a carry gun you MUST have quality irons you are comfortable with.

What size do I want?

I am comfortable carrying a full sized pistol in the majority of my activities, but sometimes (like at the gym) I want a smaller and less obstrusive carry piece. Understand what you want and how you will carry it. As long as the weapon meets your other criteria (capacity, caliber, grip, etc), that is. Be honest with yourself if you'll actually carry a larger pistol, if you are willing to take the discomfort or change your wardrobe around it. Remember effective holster selection can make a larger gun carry like a smaller one, and poor holster selection will make a smaller pistol carry like a larger one. Statistics on a piece of paper don't tell the whole story. Guns with the exact same listed dimensions may be shaped differently, resulting in a feel more or less to your liking than their supposed dimensional twin.

Can I control the recoil of this weapon?

Remember that caliber is only part of the recoil equation. A subcompact 9mm may very well have more felt recoil than a full sized .45 and be harder to bring back on target. If you can't get a proper grip, or the grip isn't shaped for your hand, recoil will be exacerbated. Bore axis and spring weight matter, a lower bore axis will push more straight back into the hand but have less muzzle flip. Really, the best way to determine this is to simply shoot the gun you are considering. People often confuse recoil control with "it doesn't hurt" and it becomes a macho thing. Just because you can comfortably shoot it doesn't mean you can control it. Followup shots will be slower and more likely to be thrown if the recoil is beyond your control.

What type of trigger and safety system do I want?

Understand the advantages and disadvantages of SAO, DA/SA, DAO or striker fired. Understand the difference trigger travel and weight will have on your shooting. Typically, a lighter trigger with less travel is easier to shoot well. You should be able to comfortably pull the trigger without straining, the trigger should feel smooth and should break (fire the gun) must be consistent, preferably with minimal stacking but enough feel to be predictable. Reset, the point at which the trigger has moved forward enough to be ready to fire again, should be consistent and predictable. Remember weight and smoothness can be adjusted to a point via trigger kits and gun smithing. If you don't like the trigger, you will not like the gun. If you want a manual safety, be sure you can operate it quickly under stress. There are many firearms that have a safety that is too small or too stiff to reliably operate under in a sudden encounter.

So, to summarize:

You will never reach your potential with a gun that doesn't fit YOUR hand and preferred grip angle.

You will never reach your potential with a gun that has inconsistent or poor trigger feel.

Sights are a major limiting factor for handgun, you must choose something that you can quickly acquire and make accurate shots with.

Choose something you will practice with and carry consistently.

If the gun doesn't fit you, the caliber, round count, etc. are meaningless debates.

How important is a backup?

I consistently carry a backup while on duty, but am less concerned with it off duty depending on the situation. There are scenarios were a backup may come into play, and if you can comfortably and consistently carry one there is no reason not to. Just realize that in most self-defense scenarios you are not going to have time to switch weapons before the situation is resolved, one way or another. I carry a backup because people tend to know I am armed and if there is a struggle over my main weapon I still have...a backup. If I am ambushed in a physical fight and my main weapon is pinned or between me and the ground, I can get to my backup. These considerations are because of my job and specific threats, when I'm out of town and back into "regular guy facing regular random violence", I am much less concerned with having a backup on me.

Isn't it all about shot placement?

No. As some of my earlier anecdotes showed, shot placement doesn't guarantee bullet path and even a torso or head shot may fail to immediately incapcitate. Hence the importance of being able to control your weapon, get sights back on target quickly, and be ready for additional shots.

Anecdote #1: Police shooting, suspect is hit in the chest with a .223 round and at least one .40 S&W round. Suspect falls, but immediately gets back up and continues to engage in a running gun battle for approximately 2 more city blocks.

Anecdote #2: Suspect shot in the upper thigh with a .22 LR at near contact distance, flees. Shows up at hospital later.

How important is ammo selection?

Note that some calibers are more ammo sensitive than others. Different twist rates will have different levels of accuracy with different bullet weights, etc. This can be pretty pronounced or it may barely be noticable, hence the reason you shoot a little bit of everything to see what your gun 'likes'.

Purchase quality HP ammo for your carry weapon. The debate on SXTs vs Gold dots vs Hydrashocks vs....is splitting hairs. Is one slightly better than another? Probably in a given scenario but not in another. Its easy to over think. Buy several different types of carry ammo, see which one is most accurate and controllable in your pistol and feeds with no issues, carry that.

[JsinOwl 644]

I had a hiccup with my Ruger GP100. It shot fine at the range, I took it home and cleaned it, and suddenly the trigger pull was inconsistent. It was heavier on one chamber of the cylinder. Now, revolvers tend to be pretty simple, and with my recommendations of a revolver for a first gun, I figured I'd share my troubleshooting process. THIS IS ALL DONE WITH AN EMPTY GUN.

1: Push the extractor down like you are extracting the empty rounds. Look for any dirt, lead shavings, or other debris under the extractor star. Even a thread from a cleaning patch under there can result in improper head spacing, which will cause the cylinder to not close or the trigger to be rough. Take a nylon brush and clean this area.

2: Check the "finger" in the back of the frame and the star shaped cam on the back of the cylinder for any debris. Also check the locking lug(s) and the notches in the cylinder. Sweep any debris out with a nylon brush.

3: Verify gun is empty AGAIN. Hold gun with a strong light source behind it. Look at the gap between the cylinder and the forcing cone (the end of the barrel where the bullet enters from the cylinder). The gap should be consistent and not angled. Cock the hammer and make sure the gap doesn't change. Pull the trigger and repeat the process. If the gap stays consistent, this step checks fine. If the gap varies (the cylinder comes closer to the forcing cone or even makes contact) the crane is bent, a gunsmith needs to make a repair.

4: If 1-3 fail to fix it, heavily oil the cylinder where the crane (the rod it spins on) is with something like CLP and allow to soak overnight. This will loosen and remove any crud underneath.

#4 resolved my issue. Likely the dust from the outdoor range I was shooting at gummed it up when I put a little oil in there, I needed to flush it out. Just to make sure, I carried my Sig today and took the Ruger to our armorer. He broke it down, and other than a tiny sliver of plastic in the lockwork (something that must have flaked off at the factory), the revolver was given a clean bill of health. He also polished the internals for me while he had it apart. This results in a silkier trigger pull. The Ruger already had an excellent trigger from the factory, but it is notably smoother at about the 75% to 90% point in its travel.

[JsinOwl 644]

So, you bought a revolver and now the question is, "how do I reload this thing?"

There are several options for most revolvers. Note that certain revolvers, typically those chambered for a non-rimmed caliber, require moon clips. (Rimmed cartridges like the .38 special are designed for revolvers, non-rimmed like the .45 ACP are designed for self loading weapons.) Any revolver not designed for moon clips at the factory can be modified by a gun smith to accept them, usually for about $100 or so.

****************

Moon clips come in Full and Half. Full moon clips are a very fast way to do a full reload, and help with empty case extraction. They are less bulky than a speed loader. They don't accidentally dump the rounds in your pocket, like some speed loaders can. All obvious advantages. Disadvantages are if they get bent they can cause head spacing issues and the inability to do a partial reload. You must remove ALL of the rounds and insert a new moon clip, so even if you only shot once you have to replace all of the rounds. Half moon clips trade speed of full reloads to have the advantage of being less bulky and laying flatter against your body, but force you to do a partial reload, as each clip only reloads have the rounds in the cylinder.

Speed loaders also fall in to two categories, push to release and twist to release. Pushes are as fast as moon clips, all else being equal. Twisties aren't as fast and are harder to manipulate. Both are more bulky than moon clips. They also mandate an empty gun reload, no topping off, BUT leave your ability to do a partial reload via other means intact. Twisties can accidentally disengage in your pocket. Twisties have ZERO advantages over pushes. Pushes also come with various length "handles", so you can find your own comfort zone for bulk vs ease of handling.

Speed strips are slow for full reloads, but allow for fast partial reloads and lay very flat in your pocket with no more bulk than the rounds themselves. If you don't know how to handle them, its also easy to drop a round. They take more practice than either the speed loader or the moon clip to maintain proficiency.

2x2x2 pouch is great for partial reloads, but almost as slow as loose rounds for a full reload. It takes up belt real estate, and isn't something most folks will wear in plain clothes or off duty. And its expensive.

Loose rounds require no extra equipment, but are slow and offer no advantages, other than cost, to other methods.

************

For me, the combination of having both speed loaders and speed strips available give me the most flexibility. I can do a fast full reload or do a partial reload (the "Combat Pick" or tactical reload as its more often called now). Law enforcement shootings often follow different time lines than self defense shootings. You exchange gun fire with a suspect, and now he's barricaded or he's down and you're behind cover waiting for backup to arrive before you approach him. You have time to remove the spent cartridges and reload your gun without wasting rounds by ejecting the live cartridges. Moon clips remove that option, you either continue with a partially loaded gun or you waste rounds.

The chances of doing a partial reload with a revolver as an armed citizen are extremely low. In a self defense situation, you are unlikely to find a lull in the action, and if you do need to reload you want to do so in the fastest way possible, dump all the old, stuff in all the new. The advantage of the moon clip increases and the disadvantages are decreased when weighted for the carrying citizen. Moon clips also overcome a bad ejection stroke, since they physically must remove all the brass or remove none of it you won't be left with one empty still dangling out of the cylinder that you have to knock free before you reload.

[Docwagon 856]

Wow, thanks Jsin, I appreciate you swapping everything over!