Doc's firearms thread

[Docwagon 856]

As a follow up, I've got all the useful guns I need.  At this point I'm just collecting a hand full of guns that I dig just because of what they are.

 

Colt Detective Special

S&W 29 (-2 or earlier)

S&W 24 or 624

S&W 25

 

That's the remainder of my checklist.

[Drifter 851]

Cool gun, and can't beat free!

 

It's always neat to collect things that are related to what you enjoy and just display them. I'm the same way with old fishing gear and old cameras.

[Drifter 851]

BTW I dunno how I missed the pic of the new belt till now. I like it! Just enough flash to make it custom, without being too in your face. Looks good.

[Plumbers Crack 4,059]

Just curious Doc...is there a reason why you shoot from 7 yards? Is it the range length? Just seems an odd distance

[Docwagon 856]

Just curious Doc...is there a reason why you shoot from 7 yards? Is it the range length? Just seems an odd distance

 

On the indoor range, it's clearly marked.  Other ranges are guessing.  I did just learn that running it to the end of the wire is 15y, though.

 

Dot Torture is designed for different difficultly levels.  Beginner is 3y, then 5y, then 7y, then 10y.

 

Bill Drills are also often done at 5y, 7y, 10y.  Closer in and you don't need your sights or much recoil control.  Further out you need more of each.

 

Now, with all that said, I shoot at a variety of distances, from contact to 85y with handguns.  85y is as far as I can shoot on the police range without a spotter.  115 if you have a spotter to keep people from walking through an opening while you shoot.

 

Something like this, I'll shoot at 7y:

 

 

The goal is to see how much sight picture you need.  You need to slow down and be more careful as the targets diminish in size.  Learning that instinctively helps you know how fast you can run at a given distance for a given target without throwing shots.  Hit the 1" sq, then the 2" circle, then the 3x5 card.  The first shot will need more time, the last shot much less time.

 

This was shot at 15y, although I thought it was as 12y (remember when I said I just learned if you run the target all the way back...)

 

 

Basically simulating a head shot.  1" square and 7" circle.

 

And some bull's eye work (ignore 12y, again...just learned....)

 

 

 

(fingers are covering some earlier holes from revolver shots, not cheating on the group size.  

 

And 15y with my new target revolver.

 

 

The first group of 5 shots was 2 and 1/16th inch, center to center.  Again, 15y, not 12y as written.  I started having anticipation issues and pushed the gun a bit, resulting in some low hits as I kept going.  This was stemming from setting off a .357 in a small cubicle in an indoor range.  Even with ear protection, it was loud, and I was starting to exhibit a startle reflex, which caused me to shove at the gun just enough to dip the point of impact 1-3".  Got my flinch back under control and was good to go from then on.

[Docwagon 856]

I did some practice with by backup gun today, the Ruger LCR.  All horrible reloads I made in 2013 when I couldn't find powder/primers and had to improvise.  158 LSWC,  Acc #5 with SPP, doesn't give a consistent burn and smokes like George Burns.  I figured might as well shoot it and reclaim the brass now that I can use good recipes again.  I fired 180 rounds today, 50 of those reloads left.

 

Unburnt powder on my hand after 30 rounds:

 

 

Rhythm drills at 7 yards.  Target by itself is 2H, 50 shots.  Next target is SHO, 50 shots.  The one I scared real bad but didn't hurt much is WHO, 20 shots.

 

 

5y transition from dot to dot.  Left is 2H, right is SHO.

 

 

 

 

(2H = 2 handed, SHO, = strong hand only, WHO = weak hand only)

[Docwagon 856]

I've wanted a Red Nichols holster ever since I saw his work on High Noon Holsters.  I kept waiting for the Sigs to make the gun list, as it was Glocks and 1911s only for quite awhile.  About the time he listed the P226 he stopped importing to the US through High Noon.  (Red retired to Australia)  I tracked him down in his semi-retirement via cyber-stalking....err, finding some forums he was a member of, and he agreed to make some gear for me.  At this time he is offering his line up to current LEO's only.

 

This is a design he calls "Beat the Devil" and is an avenger style holster. He made it to fit both my P226/P220 AND my P229.  I was not sure it would work well, but trusted Red knew his craft enough that if he said he could make it work he could make it work.  It works.  Perfectly.  Retention and draw is perfect with them both.  It is truly phenomenal work.  Leather body, kangaroo lining (because why not kangaroo?) and ostrich leg trim..  The pictures with the stone background are Red's that he took before he shipped it to me.  The much suckier indoor pictures are my own with a real gun and magazine in them.  Since Red's in Australia now, even his access to pretend-guns is limited, which unfortunately keeps his list of available guns lower than more makers.

 

 

 

 

 

Now check this out with the belt laid flat.  It's not just cut straight and call it a day.  It's got a curve built in so it actually follows the line of your hips by rising slight on both sides.  That's attention to detail.  I really dig the "dress belt" thickness up front and the "gun belt" thickness everywhere else, it'll wear fine for suits for work or for jeans off duty.

 

 

 

 

The belt slots on the holster are cut so as to leave a lot of 'meat' around them, not just a big punch out.  It makes it much more resistant to sliding around, even if you push slightly forward on the gun as you draw so it 'pops' forward as it clears.  It also keeps the grip in tight but allows a full grip easily.

 

This is 100% by far the best OWB holster I've ever had.  It's sexy, it's functional, it oozes quality, and I'm WELL satisfied I got more than my money's worth.  Red's guarantee makes me chuckle a bit, but also shows how much he stands behind his work.  

 

My holsters are guaranteed for normal use for the working life of its maker. During that time, if your holster is or becomes unsuitable to its safe use with your specified pistols, please send along proof of its destruction for a full refund.

 

Red's given me permission to pass along his contact info to any CURRENT LEO ONLY who is interested in ordering from him at this time.  He's working on setting up a way to import more easily and open up to the general public, but at this point he must remain low volume and has settled on CLEO as his way to do that.

[JsinOwl 644]

Very nice!

[McNasty 260]

Kangaroo leather is the shit. Before all the synthetic stuff hit the markets with cleats, all the expensive stuff was kangaroo. You can tell a massive difference playing soccer with kangaroo leather vs normal leather.

[The3rdWalker 1,271]

Kangaroo leather is the shit. Before all the synthetic stuff hit the markets with cleats, all the expensive stuff was kangaroo. You can tell a massive difference playing soccer with kangaroo leather vs normal leather.

My baseball glove in High school was Kangaroo leather and that was in 2004, it's still in wonderful condition and the texture of the leather was so nice.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Docwagon 856]

As a follow up, I've got all the useful guns I need.  At this point I'm just collecting a hand full of guns that I dig just because of what they are.

 

Colt Detective Special

S&W 29 (-2 or earlier)

S&W 24 or 624

S&W 25

 

That's the remainder of my checklist.

 

 

 

29-2 .44 magnum, in really nice condition, but not so nice I'll feel bad shooting it.  6". 

 

For those keeping score at home, yes, this is the Dirty Harry gun.

 

[Plumbers Crack 4,059]

Can you really fire a Magnum one handed like that?

[Docwagon 856]

Can you really fire a Magnum one handed like that?

 

You can fire anything any way...once.

 

Serious answer:  It depends.  Strength, grip technique, and ammunition selection can make a big difference.  Grips and weight of the gun, as well, but let's assume we're talking the Model 29 and factory wood grips.  With full house .44 magnums and lead bullets, I'd say its doable but it's not going to be pleasant and it'll be a long time between shots as the gun is going to jump up quite a bit.

 

There are manufacturers now who make lighter bullets, generally all copper, that will be more pleasant to shoot when loaded to reasonable velocities.

[Docwagon 856]

Walk back drills. 16 shots total.  Start wherever you want.  Take one shot.  If you hit, move back 1 yard and try again.  If you miss, stay where you are and try again.  3 misses in a row means you're done, even if you have ammo left.  Else, shoot at 16 and see how far back you can go.

 

P226, started at 5 yards.

 

 

One miss from 17y.

 

S&W Model 29, started at 7 yards.

 

 

Misses at 14y, 17y, and 19y.

[Docwagon 856]

Live fire today.  P226 and LCR.

 

This target was made as an amalgamation of jokes about ear shots, bigfoot, and denim hats on another forum.  I used it today for a laugh, but I actually learned a bit using it.  The multiple colors made it more confusing visually with black on black sights (LCR) but made no difference at all with the factory fiber optic front sight on the P226.

 

7y, LCR:

 

 

7y, P226:

 

 

7y, LCR, SHO, 20 shots:

 

 

I threw some when I let my my thumb relax and jabbed it under recoil.  Otherwise I stayed in the circle.

 

The discussion about TDA pistols and the fact a Dot Torture specifically for them got my attention a few days ago, so I figured I'd give it a go.  Everything was shot from a low ready when a draw was called for, as I was using an indoor range that doesn't allow drawing.  I also did not keep a time for my first attempt.

 

 

The 6-7 transition was the roughest and I started drifting low left.  I also shoved one early on out of the "1" and called it and threw one out of the "8" into the "9" and called it.  46/50.

 

I finished with some reloads.  Fire one at the top circle, reload, fire one at the bottom circle.  3 reps per circle.  I started off strong but started flinching as I finished up and shove some.  I flinch easier at the indoor range as the session goes on, I suppose because it's so much louder in the little cubicle then firing outside.  It never affects the beginning of the session, but builds.  The good news is it's much less pronounced than it used to be, so I'm mastering that slowly but surely.

 

 

I think I've really figured out how much push/pull pressure to use for recoil control without moving the sights now, and my grip getting stronger and more confidence in my ability to hold the pistol is helping me not strangle it with my strong hand, an issue I used to have pretty badly with double stacks.

[Docwagon 856]

I didn't put this up from last Friday, but I've been using the FAST drill to measure improvement.  From concealment at 7y, you draw and fire 2 shots into a 3x5 box, reload from slide lock, and then fire four shots into the 8" round circle. This target is scaled to fit on regular printer paper, so you shoot if from 16' instead of 21'.

 

 

Under 7 seconds is considered advanced.  I did this with two layers of concealment, my suit coat and a top coat, and that really slowed my reload.  I'm pretty happy with the times and think under just a suit coat I'd be in the mid 6's range.

[McNasty 260]

Would be cool to see a video. I don't know a lot of the terms you're using for shooting drills.

[Docwagon 856]

Would be cool to see a video. I don't know a lot of the terms you're using for shooting drills.

 

Ah, sorry.  I cross posted this on a firearms forum and didn't change the abbreviations or the like for here.

 

SHO = Strong Hand Only (one handed shooting with your dominant hand)

WHO = Weak Hand Only

 

If it's not mentioned, it's assumed to be two handed shooting.

 

Slide lock = when the pistol is empty and the slide locks back on an empty magazine.  This is opposed to a non-empty gun reload (aka a tac reload) where there is still a cartridge in the chamber and the slide is forward so you're just swapping out magazines.

 

TDA = True Double Action.  It's just a type of pistol where the first trigger pull cocks the hammer, but then the slide moving under recoil cocks it for follow up shots.  This means the first trigger pull is longer and heavier than the followup shots.  Also called a DA/SA pistol.

 

P226 is the type of pistol I was using, a Sig P226.  LCR is a small revolver made by Ruger that I use as a backup gun.

 

Anything else, just ask.

[Docwagon 856]

Live fire day.

 

I started with a FAST shot cold.  Red Nichols gear under a winter jacket.

 

7.21 clean

 

 

After I was warmed up a bit I shot a 6.60, 6.1 + 0.5 penalty (shot one a touch high).

 

Moved on to the Dot Torture for TDA pistols.  I didn't keep time.  I need to buy the app so my Shotmaxx can keep multiple times, but right now it's too much of a PITA to keep track of each individual time.  47/50.

 

 

I then did some steel work from 15y to 85y utilizing cover and movement, and finished up the day with DotW #140, which I will post in that thread.

 

Everything was with my Sig P226 and American Eagle factory ammo, 180gr.

 

 

***Drill of the week #140***

 

When I started there was light cloud cover and a tiny flurry of snow.  Then the sun came out and the wind was blowing the baffles around enough I had moving shadows on my target.  That made it fun for the head shot box, but I got through it.

 

After 1st string:

 

 

End result:

 

 

String #1:

Fastest: 0.60

Slowest: 0.83

Hits: 8/10

Total time: 7.14

 

String #2:

Fastest: 0.72

Slowest: 0.98

Hits: 9/10

Total time: 8.36

 

String #3:

Fastest: 0.31

Slowest: 0.77

Hits: 10/10

Total time: 4.63

 

String #4:

Fastest: 0.89

Slowest: 1.07

Hits: 8/10

Total time: 9.70

 

String #5:

Fastest: 1.02

Slowest: 1.64

Hits: 7/10

Total time: 12.3

 

String #6:

Fastest: 0.65

Slowest: 1.46

Hits: 6/10

Total time: 8.73

 

Shot with my .40 P226 and American Eagle 180gr factory ammo.  Everything shot DA.

 

Things I noted:

 

I'm significantly faster when starting on target, which was not surprising in the least to me.  My slow times were due to slow reaction to the beep, and 6/10 were under .40 seconds.  String #6 was tough because I was starting to lose mental focus and wanted to jab at the trigger and I also had a moving shadow playing up and down on the bottom half of the box.  Most of my misses were just low and were in the shadow, a combination of visual confusion and stabbing at the trigger and shoving slightly.  To be really fair to this test, I should probably shoot it in the opposite order at some point, from 6-1, as well.  I'd also probably shoot the "compressed ready" strings from a low ready to compare to high ready as well.

[Docwagon 856]

I recently picked up a 19-3 Nickel, as I posted in the "things you've bought" thread.  I treated it to a little Mother's detail wax and spoke lovingly to it until we could go to the range today.




As an inside joke on another forum, if a gun can't take out Bigfoot so you can collect his hat, it's not worth having. Bigfoot's primary weakness is his Achilles' eardrum.





Still having trouble getting that elusive ear canal shot, but I think I got his attention.



I started out a little low, but figured out the sight alignment pretty quick. I really dig the yellow front sight.

[Docwagon 856]

I've had some issues with my Redhawk 5032 that resulted in Ruger swapping my original out of spec revolver for a new one.  The new one was significantly better, but was not quite 100% reliable in double action.  I think I've got it resolved.

 

The first thing I did was tear the revolver down and inspect the innards. There were no obvious burrs or major issues, but I did notice it was completely dry.  I lubed all contact points and reassembled.  The second thing I did was stone the hammer a bit where the hammer hits the frame.  There were machine marks on it, almost like a finger print but more regular, and it did not appear to be hitting exactly flush.  I stoned it down smooth, taking maybe a few hundredths of an inch of metal.

 

The result was a significant improvement in reliability.  Using Starline brass, CCI primers, and 6.6 grains of Titegroup under a 230 gr plated bullet, I loaded up 40 test cartridges of .45 Colt.  I also took a box of factory HST .45 ACP hollowpoints.  All cartridges fired.  All HSTs were shot double action, 34/40 of the handloads were shot double action.  The HST did occasionally result in my face being pelted with debris.  I'm not sure if it's shaving the bullet a bit or I'm just getting blow back.  I was on an indoor range and unable to recover bullets.  None of the handloads caused the issue.  Accuracy was within acceptable limits given my skill level.

 

Handloads at 7y, 1 called flier, double action.

 

 

Speeding up a bit, 34 shots into upper box.  6 shots of slow fire in the circle (the first two were center and slightly to my right, as I went along I pushed a bit high) and the final 4 cartridges in the 1" square were shot single action.  I heeled the first shot bad and it's the highest one.  Took my time and got it down into the box.  The load shoots POA when I do my part.  I find the round butt a bit more difficult than a square butt and suspect I'm heeling the gun a little bit.

 

 

 

 

This is 18 shots of HST, all double action, in strings of 6.  Shoot 6, drop the moon clip, reload and get right into the next 6.

 

 

I don't have any S&B primed cartridges at the moment to see if it will now pop harder primers, but initial results look good for CCI primers and domestic ammunition.  This isn't a high volume revolver for me, but I still intend to load up some of the cheaper primers and see how they do.

[crippled_viper 258]

Nice shooting there Doc. Today I'm sighting in my .300 RUM from 100 yards to get a good base line. Keep up the good work.

[crippled_viper 258]

So I went out to sight in my .300 RUM. So we started out at 50 yards just to hit paper. Well when the gunsmith bore sighted my scope to my rifle I wasn't hitting paper. Took me 5 to 6 shots to eventually hit paper. My scope was sighted far right; had to crank my turrent over like 2 complete revolutions. Once we started hitting paper then I was able to walk it into the bulls-eye. Ran out of time to step back to 100 yards. But that will be another day.

[Jason 1,245]

Winter is soup season for us, love to make mass amounts and reheat throughout the week. My new favorite soup over the last few years was due to marrying into a Minnesota family and I've almost gotten my wife's family to say it's better than their moms.

Chicken Wild Rice Soup

Ingredients:

½ cup butter

1 onion, chopped

1 cup celery, chopped

1 cup carrots, sliced

¾ cup all-purpose flour

6 cups chicken broth

2 cups wild rice, cooked

1 pound boneless skinless chicken breast, cooked & cubed

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon curry powder

½ teaspoon mustard powder

½ teaspoon dried parsley

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup slivered almonds

3 tablespoons dry cooking sherry

2 cups half & half

Directions:

• Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the onion, celery and carrots and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the flour and stir well. Gradually pour in the chicken broth, stirring constantly, until all has been added. Bring just to a boil, reduce heat to low and let simmer.
• Next, add the rice, chicken, salt, curry power, mustard powder, parsley, ground black pepper, almonds and sherry. Allow to heat through, then pour in the half & half. Let simmer for 1 to 2 hours. Make sure not to boil or your roux will break.

Wild rice reminder: (I have to have this written down or I forget every time, i just can't ever remember it)

Use a 4:1 ratio of water to wild rice. Add the rice and the water together and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water begins to boil, lower the heat and let simmer. Keep the pot covered. Cook for 45 minutes. The rice will become tender and burst open.

You're in docs firearms thread... Sounds good though. Lol

[Sennex 1,903]

You're in docs firearms thread... Sounds good though. Lol

 

 

I fixed it for him